정겨운 Kyo Un Chong , 현송화 Song Hua Xuan , 윤여민 Yeo Min Yoon , 김상욱 Sang-uk Kim , 최부건 Bou Kun Choi , 이성호 Sung Ho Lee , 박수남 Soo Nam Park , 이종성 Jong Sung Lee

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Abstract

With increasing interest in the effectiveness and safety of sunscreen worldwide, research on the development of new inorganic sunscreen is also gaining momentum. In the present study, non-nano sized needle type zinc oxide, which can meet the regulation of nano-material as a recent problem, has been synthesized and surface-modified with cetyl alcohol to obtain needle type zinc oxide powder. Here, we also investigated their physical properties and evaluated their potential application as sunscreens. As a result of the experiment, the sunscreen with needle type zinc oxide powder, which was non-nano, showed similar UV-protection properties and transparency compare to that of 40nm size zinc oxide. It was further confirmed that the UV blocking effect was significantly increased when the needle type zinc oxide dispersion was applied to the sunscreen. Therefore, although the needle type zinc oxide is non-nano (200 nm) material, it has the potential to be applied to the product as an excellent transparency (improvement of whiteness), UV protection efficacy and smooth texture.

Key Words

needle type, zinc oxide, non-nano, cetyl alcohol, ultraviolet, W, O emulsion

김용현 Yong Hyun Kim , 박성하 Sung Ha Park , 박병준 Byoung Jun Park , 신계호 Kye Ho Shin , 강학희 Hak Hee Kang

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Abstract

In this study, the difference between the preservative efficacy test (PET) used for water dispersion formulations and PCPC (personal care products council) guidelines alternative test method, direct contact membrane method, and surface mold test should be studied to determine what should be considered during preservative efficacy test of water non-dispersible formulations. We conducted improved PETs when using the alternative test method compared with the test methods used for stick and pressed powder. There was no significant improvement between water-in-silicon emulsions and loose powder using alternative test methods. When we checked the results of the presence and absence of the preservative system for each product, we could see that there were differences in testing methods. As a result, improved levels of results could be obtained using both existing and alternative test methods when measuring preservatives for water non-dispersible formulations. In addition, in the case of stick and pressed powder, the results were more effective when the preservative test method applied to the consumer's method of use was applied.

Key Words

preservatives, preservative efficacy test, alternative testing method, atypical formulations, direct contact membrane method

정정화 Jeong-hwa Jeong , Thao Kim Nu Nguyen , 최민진 Min-jin Choi , 응웬리 Ly Thi Huong Nguyen , 신흥묵 Heung-mook Shin , 이병욱 Byung-wook Lee , 양인준 In-jun Yang

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Abstract

This study is an experiment to evaluate the anti-atopy efficacy of five kinds of natural plant essential oils; Artemisia annua L. (AA), Citrus junos Sieb. ex TANAKA (CJ), Chrysanthemum boreale Makino (CB), Pinus koraiensis (PK), and Pinus densiflora for. erecta (PD). Through Agar diffusion test, five species of native plant essential oils were treated in a total of four strains, Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Candida albicans. In order to invest the anti-inflammatory effect, five kinds of natural plant essential oils were treated in HaCaT cells-induced by TNF-α and IFN-γ (TI). AA, CJ, CB, PK and PD showed antibacterial e ffects on Candida albicans at a concentration of 10 mg/mL. We also found that the thymus and activation-regulated chemokine (TARC) expression was suppressed in 0.1 μg/mL of PK, 1 μg/mL of AA, CB, and PK. macrophage-derived chemokine (MDC) expression was suppressed in 1 μg/mL of AA and PK. IL-6 expression was suppressed in 0.1, 1 μg/mL of AA, PK in HaCaT cells. Hence it suggests that AA, CB, and PK have the anti-inflammatory effects, and it could contribute to atopic dermatitis relief by reducing the infiltration of immune cells to inflamed area.

Key Words

native plant, essential oil, atopic dermatitis, anti-microbial, anti-inflammation

오지원 Ji Won Oh , 김현지 Hyun Jee Kim , 곽병문 Byeong Mun Kwak , 조한태 Hantae Jo , 이미기 Mi-gi Lee , 빈범호 Bum-ho Bin

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Abstract

The main stability factors of the pressed powder include hardness and drop stability. In general, for pressed powder with talc, the hardness and drop stability are evenly met and the skin texture is excellent. Recently, more than ever customers are looking for a replacement due to asbestos issue of talc. Therefore, it is urgent to develop a pressed powder formulation without talc that maintains stability and does not lose its sense of use. In this study, experiments were conducted to find the optimal ingredients mixing ratio to make talc-free pressed powder. The characteristics of raw materials used mainly in powder were checked and the ratio was changed, and the lightness and hardness were measured and drop test was conducted. If the natural mica ratio was higher than the synthetic mica or non-coated silica was used instead of the coated silica, the hardness and drop stability were lower than the content containing talc, but the lightness was similar. Conversely, if the synthetic mica ratio was equal to or higher than the natural mica ratio and the coated silica ratio was equal to or higher than the non-coated silica ratio, the hardness and drop stability of the content containing talc were similar, but the lightness was low. It was found that the hardness was higher than the content containing talc, but the drop stability was lower. Therefore, further study of the correlation between hardness and fall stability is also thought to be necessary.

Key Words

pressed powder, talc, mica, silica, hardness, drop test

김현지 Hyun Jee Kim , 오지원 Ji Won Oh , 곽병문 Byeong Mun Kwak , 이미기 Mi Gi Lee , 빈범호 Bum Ho Bin

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Abstract

Formulations which are dispersed in water are often used in color cosmetics because they are characterized by no powder flying, not sticky, and high adherence while giving a light feeling of use. However, little research has been considered on the effect of the pigment on the above formulations used in color cosmetics. In this study, experiments were conducted to measure and analyze the effect of pigments on the formulation of pigments, organic pigments, and pearl polish, which are mainly used in the manufacture of color cosmetics, on appearance changes, pH changes, and photometric stability. Carmine or ferric ferrocyanide coated titanium dioxide mica-based pigments were not suitable for use due to poor photostability, with colors appearing on the surface from low viscosity formulations. Organic pigments had a good photostability of 1% of the formulation which are dispersed in water, but were not suitable for use because they came out of color on the water surface and did not spread well due to the clumping of powders. The titanium dioxide mica system pigments coated with pearl polish, inorganic pigments, and iron oxide were suitable for use due to their excellent appearance and optical stability in the formulation. Furthermore, the pH of all samples distributed by each pigment seems to be within the range of 3.0 to 9.0, which is suitable for cosmetic applications. This is expected to help manufacture color cosmetics with a stable water dispersible formulations by selecting and using stable pigments in anticipation of the behavior of pigments in the formulations.

Key Words

pigments, pH, aqueous dispersions, inorganic pigments, organic pigments

한지혜 Ji Hye Han , 이주연 Ju Yeon Lee , 이관형 Kwan Hyoung Lee , 김희선 Hee Sun Kim , 박창열 Chang Yeol Park , 맹지혜 Ji Hye Maeng , 소지민 Ji Min So , 남개원 Gae Won Nam , 김상철 Sang Chul Kim

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Abstract

In this study, a liquid crystal emulsion with a composition ratio similar to the skin lipid composition was manufactured using ceramide, glycolipids, cholesterol, and fatty acids, and a polarized microscope was used to identify liquid crystal particles in the formulation, and a cryso-SEM was used to confirm the formation of a multilayer structure. The above samples were stored at room temperature for one month and the liquid crystal structure was continuously maintained through microscopic observation. In addition, a cream composition containing liquid crystal emulsion was manufactured, and the efficiency of ceramide skin penetration was confirmed using three-dimensional artificial skin. Clinical trials were conducted using the cream composition and the results of clinical trials on skin barrier improvement were confirmed by measuring skin moisture retention (skin hydration) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) of subjects compared to general emulsion.

Key Words

ceramide, gucosyl ceramide, liquid crystal emulsion, skin barrier function, skin permeation

권진관 Jin Gwan Kwon , 서찬곤 Changon Seo , 정연우 Yeon Woo Jung , 최용문 Yongmun Choi , 신현탁 Hyun Tak Shin , 정수영 Su Young Jung , 최정준 Jeong June Choi , 김진규 Jin Kyu Kim

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Abstract

In this study, isoscoparin was selected as an indicator component to develop Silene seoulensis extract as a functional cosmetic material, and we developed an analysis method using high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) for quality control. HPLC was performed on a Unison US-C₁₈ with a gradient elution of 0.05% (v/v) trifluoroacetic acid (TFA) and methanol at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min at 35 ℃, and the detection wavelength was 330 nm. The HPLC method was performed in accordance with the international conference on harmonization (ICH) guideline (version 4, 2005) of analytical procedures with respect to specificity, precision, accuracy, and linearity. The limits of detection and quantitation were 0.02 and 0.07 mg/mL respectively. Calibration curves showed good linearity (R2 > 0.99988), and the precision of analysis was satisfied (less than 0.46%). In addition, the recovery rate was in the range of 99.10 to 101.61%, it was shown to be accurate. This result indicated that the established HPLC method is very useful for the determination of marker compounds in Silene seoulensis extracts.

Key Words

silene seoulensis, isoscoparin, functional cosmetic, HPLC, validation

이미영 Miyoung Lee , 이길용 Gil-yong Lee , 서진영 Jinyoung Suh , 이경민 Kyung Min Lee , 이우정 Woojung Lee , 조희원 Hee Won Cho , 이종재 Jong-jae Yi , 서정우 Jeong-woo Seo , 최헌식 Heonsik Choi

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Abstract

It is very important to control the inflammation of the skin because it can develop into diseases such as atopy as well as scarring and aging. In this work, we recently identified the in vitro synthesis of specialized pro-resolving mediators (SPMs) known to control inflammation in the human body and the applicability of cosmetics. Using recombinant protein of lipoxygenase from Glycine max, we succeeded to prepare mixtures of mono- or di-hydroxy DHA named as S-SPMs and used them for in vitro efficacy test. To investigate anti-inflammatory effect of S-SPMs, mRNA level of TNF-α and IL-6 were analyzed. Under UVB exposed condition, expression of both were decreased by S-SPMs treatment. And we observed reduced production of nitric oxide (NO) by S-SPMs application under the condition with diesel particulate matter (DPM). At the same experimental condition, malondialdehyde (MDA) production was decreased by S-SPMs, indicating the inhibitory effect of S-SPMs in lipid peroxidation. In addition, S-SPMs treatment resulted in reduction of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) expression and elevation of procollagen type I synthesis. Together with this, mRNA level of filaggrin and loricrin were increased by S-SPMs, indicating enhancement of skin barrier function. These results demonstrate that S-SPMs is a good candidate to develop as a cosmetic ingredient for anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, and improvement of skin barrier function.

Key Words

specialized pro-resolving mediators, lipoxygenase, anti-inflammation, anti-wrinkle, skin barrier

이응지 Eung Ji Lee , 강한아 Hana Kang , 황보별 Bo Byeol Hwang , 이영민 Young Min Lee , 정용지 Yong Ji Chung , 김은미 Eun Mi Kim

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Abstract

In this study, we investigated inhibitory effect of Tripeptide against particulate matter (PM)-induced damage in human keratinocytes. PM-induced cell death was inhibited by Tripeptide and the activity of aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) also inhibited by Tripeptide resulting in reduced expression of its downstream targets, cytochrome P450 family 1 subfamily A member 1 (CYP1A1) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), which are responsible for toxic metabolites production and inflammation. Furthermore, PM-induced expressions of pro-inflammatory cytokines, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and apoptosis-related factors were decreased by anti-oxidant activity of Tripeptide. From these results, it has been shown that the Tripeptide has protective effect against PM-induced skin damage not only through the inhibiting of keratinocyte death but also through the inhibiting the secretion of several damage-inducing factors to adjacent skin tissue. And the results suggested that Tripeptide with anti-pollution effect could be applied as a new functional cosmetic material.

Key Words

tripeptide, particulate matter, ambient air pollution, aryl hydrocarbon receptor, reactive oxygen species

허민근 Min Geun Heo , 윤경섭 Kyung-sup Yoon

DOI:

Abstract

The stratum corneum is formed from keratinocytes and intercellular lipids, with ceramide as the main component of intercellular lipids. Ceramides are one of the important components of the intercellular lipids to form a lamellar structure, but they are insoluble and therefore are not suitable for direct application to the skin. Thus, it was intended to apply ceramide to the formulation of pluronic lecithin organogel (PLO gel), which received constant attention among drug delivery systems. A suitable oil for formulation was selected and a PLO gel containing ceramide was manufactured. Liquid crystal formation and variation were observed using polarized microscopes, and viscoelastic analysis was performed to find out the viscoelastic behavior of the PLO gel. Small-angle X-ray scattering (SAXS) and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) analysis were performed to confirm the structures in the formulation. Results showed that the size and stability of the liquid crystal differed depending on the content ratio of ceramide and lecithin in the PLO gel containing ceramide. Furthermore, viscoelastic analysis showed the stability of the formulation, and SAXS/WAXS analysis confirmed that the PLO gel without ceramide had hexagonal structure of the quadrilateral system array, and the PLO gel with ceramide had the lamellar structure of the quadrilateral system array.

Key Words

ceramide, pluronic lecithin organogel, liquid crystal, SAXS, WAXS